John Sherman (climber)

For other people with the same name, see John Sherman (disambiguation).

John Sherman (born 1959), nicknamed Verm (short for "Vermin") is an American rock climber and a pioneer in the promotion and development of the climbing discipline of bouldering. He is also a climbing writer and photographer, and the originator of the V-grade system (after his nickname), for grading the technical difficulty of boulder problems, which has since become one of the dominant grading systems worldwide.

Sherman was a highly visible 'enigmatic' and 'colorful' character in the climbing world during the 1980s and 1990s. In 2000, when reviewing Sherman's latest book, Sherman Exposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Stories (1999), for the American Alpine Journal, climbing writer David Stevenson said: "If you’re of the opinion that Sherman is a raving lunatic, he’d probably be the last to argue with you. In fact, you’d do well to remember that he’s the one who very self-consciously gave you that impression in the first place. Don’t let the hyperbolic style fool you—this is one very smart guy", and also: "In Sherman we see the embodiment of both Royal Robbins and Warren Harding, a pair whose individual values are generally understood to be mutually exclusive. But Sherman somehow takes Harding’s semper farcimas and combines it with Robins pure, ground-up ethic. I suppose one of the tricks to reading Sherman is to know when he’s joking and when he’s serious: the answer is usually both a and b."

Sherman came to public prominence as one of the foremost developers of the important Hueco Tanks bouldering area with over 400 first free ascents in the 1980s and early 1990s. As well as being an early adopter of bouldering as a sport in its own right, through his books and writings, Sherman played an important role in the promotion and development of the sport around the world. Sherman was the author of the important 1991 bouldering guidebook, Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide, which launched the important V-grade rating system.

Published works

• Sherman, John (1991). Hueco Tanks a Climbers and Boulderers Guide. Falcon Publishing. ISBN 978-0934641326.

• Sherman, John (1994). Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America. American Alpine Club. ISBN 978-0930410575.

• Sherman, John (1999). Sherman Exposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Stories. USA: Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-0-89886-852-4.

• Sherman, John (December 2017). Better Bouldering (3rd ed.). Falcon Guides. ISBN 978-1493029273.

See also

• John Gill, a pioneer in modern bouldering
• Fred Nicole, a pioneer in modern bouldering